The 2019 Salish 100, Day Four

Tuesday, June 25th

My plan was to get off to an early start, motor all the way to Blake Island Marine State Park and get a slip for the night. I had anchored off of Blake in the past, but I had no dinghy then so was unable to go ashore. This time around I was really looking forward to exploring the island. Winds were predicted to be light to nonexistent so I knew it was going to be a boring day under outboard power, and I had nothing but sympathy for those who were going to be rowing all day.

Today's route was beyond simple: exit Gig Harbor and turn left! It was a straight shot up Colvos Passage with Vashon Island on the right, past the Southworth/Fauntleroy ferry and on to Blake Island dead north. Colvos Passage defies all logic, and the tide runs north no matter which direction it is flowing elsewhere. Amazing! Today we would pass the halfway point, about midway up Colvos Passage.

Compared to yesterday's excitement this was an easy and uneventful day. This makes for boring adventure writing I'm sorry to say, so pictures will have to tell the story.

Exiting Gig Harbor, the Gig Harbor lighthouse

The rowing begins. Tacoma and Mount Rainier provide nice scenery while 

Edwin Slaughter pulls at the oars.

Vanilla and I motoring north, too lazy to raise sail

Even under power it ain't a bad way to spend a day!

Almost through Colvos Passage

Once out of Colvos Passage and through the Southworth/Fauntleroy ferry lane I motored along the east side of Blake Island. Anchored in the bay on the northeast corner of the island was the most beautiful sailboat in all of the Pacific Northwest, the magnificent Adventuress! I passed by near enough to wave before turning west and making my way into the narrow entrance of the Blake Island Marina.

Shortly after arriving and tying up in this peaceful, idyllic boater's sanctuary, I heard what I can only describe as "the party" arriving. Apparently Argosy Cruises visits Blake with one of their humongous tour boats, blasting hideous disco and hiphop at ear-damaging levels, 'cause...summer outdoors, right? A huge crowd of outdoor enthusiasts disembarked this vessel and wandered around sort of aimlessly, looking like they had no idea how to enjoy themselves without "the party". Fortunately, this floating day-rave was only staying for a short while, and before becoming too much of a nuisance the music cranked up, and "the party" motored off to take their revelers elsewhere.

But that is not what Blake Island will be remembered for, oh no...

                             

Passing to the east of Blake Island, the spectacular Adventuress lies at anchor

Snugly tied up and ready for visitors 

Ahhh, the peace and quiet...

...until "The Party" pulls in

Time to go for a walk and explore before dinner

Almost immediately after arriving they came out of nowhere. Dozens, hundreds, maybe thousands for all I know. Raccoons have taken over the island! They were like rats, crawling everywhere and trying to steal anything edible that they could get their creepy little hands on. They were fearless, crawling right onto boats when people's backs were turned, breaking into boats to steal food, and then disappearing under the dock before you could do anything about it. It was very unnerving, and we worked in shifts to keep them off of each other's boats while we were away. No matter what you were doing, or where on the island you were, they were right there, just waiting for an opportunity. After a while we got used to it, but still...creepy.

The evil Trash Panda!

Despite the trash panda invasion it was still a beautiful island to explore. And the evening was filled with socializing, and walking the docks talking boats and cruising. I was even able to enjoy dinner with only a couple of half-hearted attempts at animal piracy, easily repelled by clapping and forceful commands of "OFF! NO!!!"

Freeze-dried dinner is fast and tasty

Waiting, just...waiting*

"You have to sleep eventually"*

Day Three, estimated mileage

*These are not my photos and are only used for dramatic effect. They are not far very off from the truth though. Raccoons are an invasive and unmanaged menace on Blake, a detriment to tourism and the enjoyment of the island, and something really should be done about it.

The 2019 Salish 100, Day Two

Sunday, June 23rd

Waking up with an even worse headache than I went to bed with was not the way I wanted to start my day! There was nothing for it though, so it was eat breakfast (a pre-made mix of oatmeal with fruit and powdered milk, and coffee) and raise anchor for the next day's adventure.

Today we'd be doing a sort of dog-leg run further down Dana Passage, turning south after rounding Johnson Point, skirting the Nisqually Reach, before turning north to pass west of Anderson Island and McNeil Island (the former penitentiary). The route would lead us through Drayton Passage and narrow Pitt Passage with the very shallow waters around Pitt Island before we would turn west after rounding Penrose Point and enter Mayo Cove and Penrose Point State Park -- a day's run of approximately 16 miles.

The fleet makes its way north out of Henderson Inlet

The winds were very light again, and the fleet ghosted along at a walking pace. Sailing in wind this light is very challenging and requires constant attention to catch every little zephyr, while trying not to move at all and not to upset the delicate balance of the boat. It also gives you lots of time to chat with boats as you pass by, which makes for a fun and social day on the water. Even with a pounding head and the resulting nausea.

Entering Drayton Passage

Josh Colvin in SCAMP #1

Approaching Pitt Passage

Entering Pitt Passage

Vanilla leads the fleet out of Pitt Passage

The fleet ghosted along all day until we passed Pitt Island, where the wind began to fill in. The closer we got to Penrose Point, the more the wind built until we were cranking along in 12 to 15 knots of breeze, and having a rollicking good time! It was so much fun watching everyone zip around, jockeying for position as we entered Mayo Cove and approached the anchorage. Most of the smaller, shallow draft boats snuck into the tiny, inner, protected harbor (later that night this would prove to be a fortuitous decision). I motored back there to check it out, but decided it looked too crowded for anchoring out. Instead, I went back out to the main anchorage, dropped the hook, took 3 Ibuprofen and drank a ginger beer, and lay down for a short nap.

Tucked safely into Penrose Point State Park

The nap and meds did the trick, and I woke feeling much better and refreshed. I made a lunch of crackers, sausage, cheese sticks, and a banana, and leaned against the front of the cabin top with my feet kicked up, relaxing and watching the other sailors find their anchoring spots, row around, and explore the beach. The breeze was still blowing pretty good, and although the sun was hot, the temperature on the water was perfectly comfortable. This was what I had come on this trip to do, and I couldn't have been happier in that moment! I eventually got up the energy to go for a row, and took Cupcake over to visit Arnie and Dave. We had a nice chat, and I rowed around a bit more before heading back to Vanilla and making dinner. It had been a long day, and at sunset I crawled into bed and turned out the lights. I was looking forward to a peaceful, restful night's sleep. Unfortunately, none of us in the outer harbor were going to be that lucky.

Out for a row in the little demon

Dave and Arnie have rafted up with a Montgomery 17

Dave's mother ship, Naomi, with Arnie rafted to starboard

Looking west as the sun finally shines

Cupcake. Can you see that evil look in her eye?

Bunny Whaler and Grasshopper rafted up, definitely a party!

It must have been around midnight when a thumping sound on the hull startled me awake. Loud, insistent, and too aggressive to ignore. I popped my head out of the hatch, and there was Cupcake, bumping against Vanilla's hull, right by my head. Irritated, I tossed a fender over the side, tied the dink close in so it couldn't move, and crawled back into my warm bag. I drifted off to sleep again...but not for long. Suddenly, I was almost tossed out of my berth and onto the cabin floor, with the boat rocking violently side to side! I jumped out of bed and stuck my head out of the hatch, wondering if I was going to see a whale trying to swamp my boat, or if there was a harbor seal trying to get aboard. There was no immediate threat that I could see, but the boat was still rocking violently side to side. As I looked out across the bay I could see every masthead light swinging in a crazy arc, as every boat on the water was tossed back and forth. I could hear engines start as boats tried to reposition themselves, or pull away from their raftups so they wouldn't be smashed against each other. Anchor chains were coming up all over the bay as boats tried to reset their dragging anchors, and keep from drifting into each other or onto the beach and rocks. My anchor seemed to be holding at the moment, so I hunkered down and just tried to hold on to Vanilla the bucking bronco! This insanity must have lasted for at least an hour before things finally began to calm down, and I was able to lie down and once again try to get some sleep. We never did hear what had caused this crazy wave action, but there were many theories. Some speculated on a small tsunami; others thought a submarine or large ship must have passed by; some thought it was some self-generated wave frequency that continued to build until running out of energy. Whatever it was, I hope to NEVER experience anything like that ever again!

Day two, estimated mileage

The 2019 Salish 100, Day Three

Monday, June 24th

I woke up feeling fine, and poked my head out of the hatch to see a gorgeous morning. Sun, light wind, the last dregs of fog blowing off the water, another beautiful day ahead.

Glassy water, and Simeon on Noddy, still sleeping under his cozy cockpit cover

Arnie, Dave, and another M15 rafted up together, getting ready to depart

Another SCAMP looking cozy. Can't say the same about the boat that ended up on the beach! 

Check those tides, people...

The day's route would take us from Penrose Point State Park to Gig Harbor, passing through Hale Passage and the Tacoma Narrows, a distance of approximately 15 miles. Upon arriving we were to be treated to a BBQ hosted by Gig Harbor Boat Works. There also was a shower at the marina, which I was really looking forward to!

After enjoying another simple, pre-assembled breakfast, I tidied up the cabin, got my gear sorted for the day, and prepared to raise anchor. With the light breeze I decided to just sail off my anchor and depart quietly. I raised my mainsail, and began hauling my anchor line. I was startled to see my anchor easily pull free of the bottom, well before I was over the top of it! With any significant wind my anchor would have certainly dragged last night. It's possible that the rocking and rolling overnight loosened it, or maybe it wasn't set as hard as I thought it was, but it was an eye opener, and I was very lucky. Once I was directly over my anchor with the main luffing into the wind, I hauled in the remaining few feet of anchor rode, hoisted my jib, and sailed away. 

The wind was very light, and several other boats and I sailed sedately out of the bay and into Carr Inlet. About halfway across the inlet I started thinking of my dear friend and sailing buddy Lee, who had passed away several years ago. We had done everything together and he was my co-conspirator on many adventures. I thought to myself, "Lee, you are supposed to be out here with me. Why aren't you here?!" and I started sobbing uncontrollably, missing him so much and wishing more than anything that he could share this grand adventure with me. It took me a while to calm down and pull myself together. Every time I'm on the water I think of him and all the wonderful times we shared.

Once I crossed Carr Inlet the wind died and it was time to motor into Hale Passage

A newer model Montgomery 15 motoring down Hale Passage

Light winds in Hale Passage

Passing Fox Island to the South and approaching the Tacoma Narrows

I looked back to see Arnie catching up to me...

...and at a higher RPM he passed right on by!

Approaching Point Fosdick (Hey, I didn't name it!)

The wind started to fill in a tiny bit as I approached Point Fosdick and the entrance to the Tacoma Narrows, so I killed my motor and raised all sail. The tide was flowing north, so with a favorable wind I could make a quick passage. I started to cut the corner in close to the point, hoping for more wind and a boost in current as the water got shallower. A steady stream of gigantic powerboats was making the water so rough that it was hard to keep my sails full though, and I started drifting in closer to the point. As I cursed the noisy stinkpots the wind died completely and I started to spin in circles, completely out of control. The current and waves from the powerboat wakes started to push me in towards shore, and I decided to start my motor and get out of there. I pulled, and I pulled, and nothing. Now I was 20 feet from the rocky shore, and getting rapidly closer. Anxiously I pulled, pulled, and frantically pulled some more. Nothing! When I needed it most it looked like my motor was going to fail me and I was going to end up on the rocks! I could see Sunkissed, a distinctive orange Montgomery 17 rapidly approaching under power, no doubt intending to throw me a tow rope and pull me off the rocks, but with one more massive desperate pull the cursed motor roared to life, and under full throttle I threw the helm hard over and averted disaster, skirting the point by 10 feet at most. Lessons learned? Never approach an unfamiliar point to leeward in light wind under sail with a-hole powerboats buzzing around you every thirty seconds. And thank you for having my back, Sunkissed!

The rest of the trip to Gig Harbor was mostly a blur. I was flooded with adrenaline, and just motored the entire way. The was no chance I was going to risk shutting off the motor again until I was tied to a dock, or to another boat! The entrance to the harbor was quite narrow, and I was happy to be motoring through it, and even happier when Dave and Arnie saw me approaching and offered a spot for me to raft up next to them, which I eagerly accepted. 

So happy to be in Gig Harbor!

Approaching the raft-up 

Safely rafted up to Dave's boat Naomi, with Arnie opposite. 

A small part of the S100 fleet

Once we were all settled everyone jumped in their dinghy and made a beeline for the marina showers, the first shower since leaving for Olympia, five days ago! We almost felt like human beings again as we headed to the BBQ put on by the Gig Harbor Boat Shop. Boatwright Tom Regen gave us a wonderful tour, and there was food and drink for everyone and a chance for all of us to hang out together and swap yarns about the trip. After gorging ourselves, Arnie, Dave and I found a small ice cream shop with the best huckleberry ice cream I had ever had! Well all then jumped in our dinghies and headed back to our respective boats, where I got inspired to row around the bay, while Dave raised the sail in his dinghy and went for an evening cruise. I slept very easy that night, knowing that the next day was an easy one with little chance of getting myself in trouble.

Racing for the showers

Arnie is winning

Gig Harbor Boat Shop on the right

Inside the shop with one of their current projects

Post ice cream bliss

Dave ghosting around the bay

Day three, estimated mileage